Are you thinking of buying a samue for the first time, but don't know which one to choose? Would you like to know more about what makes one samue different from another?

It's only natural to ask yourself these things when shopping for a samue for the first time. Today we introduce three popular samues from the Wasuian store that are great choices for a first samue: the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue, the 6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue, and the 1051 Tate Slab Samue. Let's have a look!


3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue

A simple samue made with sturdy, robust fabric. For spring, fall, and winter.



6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue

Soft and comfortable, this samue comes in 17 colors. Ideal for spring through fall.



1051 Tate Slab Samue

This traditional, rustic samue is made in a vintage-style fabric. Ideal for spring through fall.

These are the three samue we recommend for those who are looking to try a samue for the first time, but they're also great for samue veterans!

Though our store offers many varieties of samue, including ones especially suitable for summer and winter, we chose these samues because they are all of moderate thickness and can be worn for a large part of the year. Note that the samue is worn with clothing underneath. These samues are suited to any time of year, except the hot days of summer and cold days of winter.

So, what are the differences between these samue, which can all generally be worn in similar times of the year? We'll compare them by focusing on three points: fabric feel, comfort, and colors available.


1. Fabric Feel

    The biggest difference you'll find between these samues is the feel of the fabrics. It might not be noticeable from a distance, but up close, they are quite different.


    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue

    This one has a simple, plain fabric with a subtle sheen. "Twill weave" is a weaving technique used for denim and other fabrics where the density of the threads can be increased. This fabric has good elasticity, is comfortable, and doesn't wrinkle easily. This samue is recommended for those looking for a clean and stylish look.


    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue

    This fabric is woven with "Tsumugi thread" (a thread of uneven thickness) in an old-fashioned, elegant pattern called "Kasuri pattern" that is faintly visible. The fabric appears a solid color at distance, but closer up the crisscross pattern is visible. Recommended for those seeking a more traditional-looking samue.


    1051 Tate Slab Samue

    This samue is made of "slab fabric" woven using "slab threads," thread with sporadic knots in it. As the "tate" here in Japanese refers to the warp threads of the weave, fine lines of slab thread can be seen running vertically. The rustic feel of the fabric gives it a vintage look, so even if it's your first samue, it will give the impression that you've worn it for many years and are accustomed to it.


    Notice how the looks of these fabrics are quite different, even in the same grey. Despite this, all three are 100% cotton. It's the different kinds of thread used and the methods by which they are woven that lead to the remarkable differences in the textures of the fabrics. Nonetheless, they all share the same softness of natural cotton.

    2. Comfort

    The three samues are very similar in thickness.

    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue  0.40mm
    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue 0.42mm
    1051 Tate Slab Samue 0.40 - 0.75 mm

    Only the 1051 Tate Slab Samue varies in thickness due to the intermittent thicker threads.


    This is how they look when laid side by side.

    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue → 6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue → 1051 Tate Slab Samue, all in Navy blue, size L.

    As you can see, there is little difference in thickness. However, the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue will feel warmer than the other two. This is because the denser fabric of the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue is better at retaining heat.

    The weights of the samues are as follows.

    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue approx. 825g
    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue approx. 760 g
    1051 Tate Slab Samue approx. 610 g

    All weights are for size L, and include both upper and lower garments.

    Unlike with the thicknesses, the weights of the samues are quite different because of differences in the density and weights of the threads used.
    The difference can be seen when the fabrics are held up to the light.

    Following are photos of the samues held up for comparison.


    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue

    You can see that the fabric is firm to the touch and comparatively warmer as you cannot see through to the other side due to the density of the weave. Though the 100% cotton weave normally causes wrinkles to stand out, the twill weave method leads to less wrinkles in the fabric, rendering a neat and clean look.


    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue

    Though this fabric is quite transparent in comparison, the parts with overlapping fabric are not transparent. You wouldn't be able to see the clothes worn under the fabric. Though it may appear thin, the thickness and weight are both medium. It has a moderate thickness and becomes softer and more comfortable with repeated washing.


    1051 Tate Slab Samue

    The transparency of this samue is in between the other two, being just slightly transparent.  The lightest of the three, the fabric feels smooth to the touch. It can be worn in a wide range of seasons and climates.


    The 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue is described as an fall or winter samue because it feels hot to wear in summer in Japan. The other two garments can be worn in the summer in an air-conditioned room, so they have been described as spring through fall samues. If you feel hot or cold, we recommend changing what you wear underneath to adjust to the temperature.


    3. Available Colors

    The samues come in the following number of colors.


    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue

    11 colors


    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue

    17 colors


    1051 Tate Slab Samue

    6 colors 

    The 6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue comes in an abundance of colors, giving it the most color choices not only among the three we are recommending here today, but in our entire store. The colors are in bright pastel hues, giving the samue a cheerful and festive feeling.

    It's available in sizes SS to LL, the "SS size" being unique to this samue.




    The one with the second most colors is the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue. The chic colors combined with the subtle sheen of the fabric lend a relaxing air to the samue.

    Some may find the colors of the previously introduced 6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue a little too bright. If that's you, we think you might prefer the colors of the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue.
    Available in sizes S-LL.


    Though the 1051 Tate Slab Samue comes in fewer colors than the other two, the six colors that it comes in are traditional Japanese colors. The colors and the vintage feel of the fabric contribute to the poised and calm look of the samue.

    Even more remarkable is that it's available in the 4L size (currently only in Navy blue). With a wide range of sizes from S to 4L, this samue is recommended to those seeking a simple, traditional samue.


    Also, the 1051 Tate Slab Samue is the only Wasuian samue available in "Iron Blue," which is a deep blue with a slight greenish tinge, giving it a youthful flair compared to the Navy blue.


    Regarding the size ranges, the 1051 Tate Slab Samue is manufactured according to the A-type standard, while the 3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue and the 6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue are manufactured according to the B-type standard.

    Type A is slightly slimmer. Please refer to the size chart when ordering.

    Samue A Type Size Chart

    Samue B Type Size Chart



    Let’s wrap things up with a quick overview of the main features of each samue.

    3055 Cotton Twill Weave Samue

    • Firm fabric feel with subtle sheen.

    • Dense and opaque fabric, comparatively warm, best in fall and winter. Delivers an air of elegance.
    • The 2nd most color options. Comes in soft colors.


    6001 Kasuri Tsumugi Samue

    • Kasuri pattern helps to render a subtle Japanese feel.
    • Fabric is transparent in light, but not thin. Good from spring to fall, soft to the touch.
    • The most color options and also comes in SS size.


      1051 Tate Slab Samue

      • Vintage-style fabric.

      • Fabric has medium thickness and transparency, is somewhat light. Good from spring to fall, even a newbie will seem accustomed to it.
      • Comes in 6 chic colors and has large sizes available.

      So what do you think? We hope that this article will help you to find the right samue for you!
        October 30, 2022 — IdaMasaharu
        Tags: Samue